“Regenerative” is one of those skincare words that always makes me want to eye-roll automatically. Like something that was invented by some guy who read one article about stem cells on TED Talks. However, after three months of speaking with dermatologists and trying out these products myself, I now must say that there is something to these products. The point is in being able to discern which are legitimate and which just promise hopes and dreams in an expensive bottle.
Peptides: The Science-Based Ingredient
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that encourage your skin to make more collagen. Matrixyl, Argireline, and copper peptides are among the few peptides that are actually backed by science. Dr. Divya Shokeen, board-certified dermatologist, told me that peptides are the ingredients “that offer the most evidence-based regenerative treatment available without prescriptions.” They do not act as aggressively as retinoids, however, but at least they are gentler to your skin.
Exosomes: Science vs. Marketing
Exosomes are minuscule vesicles used by cells to exchange information. Now, skincare brands started using exosomes in all their products. In short, topical application of exosomes from OTC products does not work as of today – despite the fascinating science behind exosomes in clinical applications. Wait for more studies before wasting your hard-earned money.
PDRN: Salmon DNA for Skin
Yet another active ingredient on the rise is PDRN – polydeoxyribonucleotide. Its source might sound weird – salmon DNA. The thing is, PDRN is scientifically proven to promote regeneration and wound healing, yet most studies involve injectable solutions rather than topicals. Manage your expectations.
The Ingredients That Work
Currently, for skin regeneration, you need a regimen combining the following ingredients: signal peptides, ceramides, and niacinamide. Apply those ingredients regularly, and do not forget about daily sun protection.

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